For part 3 of the tulle skirt sew along, we will be sewing up majority of the skirt and attaching the tulle overlay to the satin skirt. In order to explain the next steps to you, I will be using my miniature dress form and a miniature skirt.
By now you should have all your pattern pieces cut out. Today we will be using pattern piece 1 and 2, which are the skirt back and skirt front. Lets take a minute to look at these two pattens pieces.
1 is the back of the skirt, and you will be cutting 2 pieces of fabric from this using your satin.
2 is the skirt front, and we will be cutting one piece of fabric on the fold of the fabric.
And just in case we have any beginners here, I want to make sure everyone understands the following terms:
CB is centre back as shown below
CF is centre front as shown below
SS is side seam as shown below:
Now let’s get to sewing!
Step 1: Cut our your fabric pieces 1 and 2, and you should have 3 fabric pieces as shown below
Step 2: With the right sides of the fabric facing each other, sew up both the side seams
This is what the skirt should look like from the back and front
Step 3: Press both the side seams towards the CB. Pressing is very important in this skirt and in making all tailored garments. Read my tutorial on pressing seams HERE
Now your skirt should look like this after pressing
If you have a serger, this would be a good time to go ahead serge the side seams, hem, and centre back seam. If you do not have a serger, you can skip this step.
Step 4: Using your ruler or measuring gauge, measure 5/8 inch in from the CB and mark it. This is the 5/8 inch seam allowance that will accommodate the zipper. I have shown this mark in orange.
Now go ahead mark another mark that is 1/2 inch away from the 1st mark. I have shown this mark in purple. Mark these on both the skirt backs. We are marking these because we want to make sure the tulle will not get stuck in the zipper. In the picture below, the orange mark indicates where the zipper will be inserted and the purple mark indicates where the tulle will be attached. This will ensure that the tulle is always 1/2 inch away from the zipper
Step 5: In the picture below, I have pinned the tulle to the skirt, starting at the purple mark and ending on the purple mark.
When you are pinning the tulle to the purple mark, make sure you fold the tulle under by 1/2 inch so that the tulle is nice and neat. Pin all along the waist to secure the tulle.
Step 6: Using a basting stitch, secure the tulle to the skirt. Make sure to back-stitch when you start stitching and when you end stitching.Since this pattern calls for a Seam allowance of 5/8 of an inch, make sure you are making your basting stitch about 1/4 inches from the edge, but no more than 1/2 inch away. This way we can be sure that this basting stitch will get hidden inside the seam allowance when we attach the waist band to the skirt.
Your skirt should now look something like this:
That is it for now! Next week we will tackle the waist band application, zipper insertion and hemming! Those will be the final steps!
Hope you are having a lovely weekend!