Hi Fashionistas!!! Hope you are well..
I have received a few questions about how to calculate the yardage need to create pleated skirts.. Before i get into that subject, I wanted to address pleats on a more basic level.. This is a sewing 101 tutorial of sorts, geared towards the beginner sewist, or someone who wants to brush up on their sewing jargon 🙂
I’ll be showing you examples of the following:
- Pleats (Read below)
- Box Pleats vs Inverted Box Pleats (Tutorial coming soon)
I’ll start with a definition, then a visual aid. I will also show you how to construct them.
Lets start off by looking at pictures of each. Here are some pleats I free handed on these sleeves :
Let’s have a look at some more pleats. This dress below has pleats on the neckline.
And here is another one with pleats
To learn more about what a pleat is and how to sew one, read below.
Simply put, a pleat is fabric folded on itself. That’s it. Let’s have a look.
Here is a muslin sample of a pleat. One single pleat
If the fabric were flat, it would look like this. I have color coded this for you in blue and red, so you can see the parts that disappear in the fold of the fabric once the fabric is folded.
After being folded, the red portion would be concealed in the fold.
From the bottom, the pleat would look like this:
On a pattern, a pleat is usually shown with a combination of a circle, squares or notches and a directional arrow showing you which direction the fabric needs to be folded.I do my pattern making per the industry standards for apparel production, therefore I use the notches for the pleats. You will see my pattern further into this post.
Here is an example of what you might see on a ready made pattern . This used circles, dotted lines and a directional arrow.
Now that you have the theory down, lets move on to the construction.
I have a muslin sample here . I have transferred the markings from the paper pattern. We have 2 notches and 1 directional arrow. We shall call these notches A and B. Note that the arrow is pointing in the direction of B. This means that when we construct the pleat, we need to make notch A meet notch B. In other words, the pleat will be facing notch B. You can also think of it this way. Notch B is stationary, and notch A is moving to meet Notch B. Make sense? Now lets see this is action
Pinch the notch A and make it meet notch B
Secure the pleat down with a pin, catching all three layers of fabric. Then do a basting stitch close to the edge of the fabric to secure the pleat in place and remove the pin. Voila! You have a pleat!
While you can make pleats like I showed you above, I am going to show you my preferred method of making pleats, because sometimes the pleats can tend to shift, especially if you are using slippery fabrics. So if you are working with slippery fabrics or want a more tailored look, use the method below. This is the one I recommend, but itrequiress more effort, so I wanted to show you quick method as well.
We will start with the same notches A and B
Then instead of pinching the notch A, fold the fabric such that notch A overlaps notch B, with the right sides of the fabric together. You are essentially picking up notch A and placing it exactly on top of notch B
Secure the pleats by placing a pin in the fabric about 1/2 inch away from the notches.
Then take it to the machine and stitch down 1/2 inch on the notches and also backstitch 1/2 to secure the pleat down. This step will ensure that your pleats stay in place.
Next, press the folded edge
Then lift the fabric and fold it away from the notches as shown in pic below.
At this point, your pleat is done!
You can press the pleat down just a little bit on the top if you want more poofy pleats…
Or you can press the pleats all the way down if you like..
Let me know if you want the paper pattern available for download so you can do a practice run. I can scan it and upload is here.
That’s it, folks! I will leave you with this inspiration picture. What can pleats do for you?! 🙂
In the next tutorial, I will cover box pleats… as seen on this skirt.
Have a lovely day! Talk to you soon!