Category: Behind The Seams

Sewing or Design Quick Tip

How to Draft a Petal Sleeve : Tutorial

Hi Fashionistas!

I have been meaning to film this quick video on how to draft a petal sleeve or tulip sleeve, but for some reason, it’s taking the longest.  I’ve been trying to film overhead so I can give you the best possible angle so you can see the pattern making. I’ve also been trying out new equipment like a new audio recorder. To be honest, I am not very tech savvy and even editing a video in I movie intimidates me! So I am back to doing it the simple way. I took a bunch of pictures and I will just walk you through it! It is very easy!

Before we jump in, let’s have a look at a sample I made from the pattern I drafted for this demo. A petal sleeve is a two piece sleeve where you as the designer chooses whether the back overlaps the front, or whether the front overlaps the back.  You can see examples of both below

 

Now let’s jump into the drafting!

Step 1: Take any basic sleeve. If this is your 1st time drafting a petal sleeve, pick a basic sleeve that does not have much design detail. In other words, stay away from a sleeve that already has gathers, tucks, pleats etc..

Before we move forward, let us look at the anatomy of the sleeve. As you can see below, we have the double notch indicating the back of the sleeve, the single notch indicating the front of the sleeve, the grain line and also the shoulder notch. The shoulder notch is the location where the sleeve connects to the shoulder seam on the bodice. On commercial patterns, you may see a circle instead of the shoulder notch.

Step 2: Trace 2 copies of your sleeve pattern. If you have a needlepoint tracing wheel, you can use this to trace. If not, you can also place a semi-opaque paper on top of your original pattern and trace it that way.

Be sure to copy the notches onto the copies of the sleeve.

Step 3: Measure 2-3 inches out from the shoulder notch along the shoulder cap and mark a new notch. I have shown that in black. We will be creating the back petal sleeve in this step

Using either free handing or a french curve, connect the corner where the side seam and the hem meet to the black notch on the opposite side of the sleeve as shown below.

Cut along this curved line. This below is now your back petal of the sleeve. The double notch on this patterns indicates the back of the sleeve.

Step 4:

Flip the piece you just drafted on step 3 and place it on the 2nd copy you traced in step 2.    Now trace the curve on the 2nd copy of sleeve as shown below:

Cut along the newly traced line.

This is the front of the sleeve.

 

Now if you match the sleeve front and the sleeve back at the shoulder seam, you have a brand new petal sleeve! Be sure to copy the grain line over to both pattern pieces!

That is pretty much it!

If you overlay the 2 new sleeve pieces on top of the original sleeve you traced from, you will notice that it matches perfectly. The fit of the sleeve is not impacted by this pattern changed and you can decide whether you want the front to overlap the back or for the back to overlap the front!

Sewing Tip: If you are using a knit, you can hem the petals individually as you would normally hem a knit by turning it under. If you are sewing with a woven, I highly recommend lining the sleeve for a clean finish. You could self-line or line with an interesting bright fabric or print lining for a pop of color!

Here is a sample I sewed up with this pattern:

 

I hope you enjoyed this and found it helpful. Now IF I figure out how to work this monstrosity of a gadget below, I will turn these images into a quick slide show and do a voice over and make a quick video for those of you who are like me and get confused by a lot of words.

 

Talk soon Fashionistas. Let me know. did you find this helpful? What else would you like to see?

Thanks!!

Vatsla 🙂

The Seamstress Tag

Hello!!

I told you last week I was trying to upload the seamstress tag to youtube and I was having so many technical difficulties!

I did get it uploaded that night and wanted to share it with you. Its a set of 12 questions that I answered. I will include the video here and also the 12 questions below! If you are unable to open the embedded video, you can find it HERE

Here are the 12 questions. I had so much fun filming this, although I have to say it’s strange seeing yourself on video!

SEAMSTRESS TAG QUESTIONS
1) Who are you?
2) When & why did you start sewing?
3) What is your favorite or proudest make?
4) What is your most disastrous make?
5) Where is your favorite place to go fabric shopping?
6) What is your most used pattern?
7) Your most dreaded sewing task is…
8) And your favorite sewing task?
9) What is your favorite ‘sewing entertainment’?
10) Printed or PDF?
11) What sewing machine do you use?
12) Do you have any other hobbies?

So I have been busy sewing and photographing new items. Seems too busy lately, I think I need a mental vacation!

How are you and what are you up to? Leave me a comment. I would love to hear from my sewing peeps!

XO

Vatsla

Mommy and Me Dresses in Blue

HI Fashionistas!!! Happy FriYAY!!!

This month I made another mommy and me outfit.

I did a franken-pattern with the bodice of McCalls M7121  (or HERE for larger sizes) and the skirt of McCalls M7386

At first, I wanted to make a maxi dress for myself, but as I got into the construction of the garment, I wanted to be able to wear just the maxi skirt, so I ended up making 2 pieces, that can give the illusion of a dress when worn together belted.

This first look is quite summery. I plan on wearing it to our upcoming family trip. The fabric is a 4-way stretch knit that is 92% tactel Nylon Microfiber and 8 % lycra. 

Side view if I wore these as a 2 piece. I ended up putting in a facing on the skirt since I decided to keep it as a skirt instead of sewing it to the bodice:

If I wear this as a one piece, I use the facing of the skirt as a waist band, so instead of being tucked into the skirt, it is flipped up above the skirt and tucked in under the bodice. Then I am able to belt it and Voila! It looks and feels like a one-piece dress!

The best part about this fabric is how breathable it is. I did not feel hot in it, even with a self-lined bodice. The fabric moves so beautifully. Isn’t that the true pleasure of wearing a maxi?

Here is the back view.Quite a few people have asked me about how I get these curls. I use the Jose Eber curling wand that I got on amazon a while back. It takes only 30 mins to curl all that hair, as opposed to over an hour to straighten, so I do this when in a rush. This is 4th-day hair, and my hair is still holding the curls.

Side view belted:

I also made a  high-low dress for my daughter. I ordered 3 yards of the fabric and it was just enough! Here is a simple A-line dress with a high-low hem and some ruffles on the neck!

So much love from this munchkin! 

Yay, it’s Friday!! What do you have planned? We are going out for ice cream, and I am doing some gardening on Saturday with a dear friend. Let me know what you are up to. Any sewing plans?!!

XO-

Vatsla 🙂

This craftsy sewing class is $10 right now!

Hi Fashionistas!

I’ve been dying to share my latest make with you, but I don’t even know where the time goes these days! I’ll try to get that posted tomorrow morning!

I wanted to let you know a few things:

Craftsy has this sewing class on sale for $10 right now!!!!! 

Do you remember when I told you that I should have taken this craftsy class before tackling this silk blouse I made? Well, I just purchased the class for $10. I studied with Sara Alm at Apparel Arts and she is excellent.

Anyways wanted to share the deal with you. Click HERE if you want to check out the class.

What else.. so I finally filmed the “Seamstress Tag” and I cannot even begin to tell how much technology hates me. This must have been why I never really got into youtube.  So Ya… my upload has pretty much been stuck at 94% for the last 94 hours. Anyhooz.. I will share the video with you soon! Its a set of 12 questions I answered about my love of sewing!

 

Anyways.. I’ll send you my latest mommy and me ice blue outfit tomorrow.. Have a wonderful night and TGIF!!!!

 

XO

Vatsla 🙂

 

10 Minute Silk Scarf!

HI, Fashionistas!

I made a 10-minute scarf using leftover from the silk top I made last month. Basically, I ordered 2 yards of the fabric, and whatever was leftover was 2 long skinny rectangles. I seamed them together to create one long skinny rectangle and then hemmed on all four sides.

 

The fabric is a silk cotton blend that I previously used HERE. I styled the scarf with all white and a nude pump. This pretty print deserves to the the focal point of the outfit 🙂

It was so easy to make and so cute! Love these instant gratification projects! Have you every used leftover scraps to make something fun? Let me know in the comments below!

Here is the original silk top of which I used the leftovers.

April is a really busy sewing month for me. I just wrapped up a mommy and me outfit and I am starting another one that I will share with you next week! Hope you are well!!

XOXO

Vatsla 🙂

I’m sew very late :) A year in review- 2016

HI Loves.. I am SO late in writing this post, but better late than never right? In my defense,  I am getting it done before the end of the 1st quarter. so It’s all good.

As always I wanted to reflect on the year gone by, but Jan, Feb and March have come and gone. and I still haven’t sat down and done that.. so here goes:

Here are all my 2016 makes..

Skirts: I was honestly surprised that I only made 3 skirts last year!

Box pleat circle skirt , white linen maxi, and white denim pencil skirt. All three skirts were self-drafted.

Drafting skirts is the easiest if you are interesting in pattern making. I talked about the skirt sloper class HERE

Dresses: I made a total of six dresses (wohoo)

Summer/ Spring:  blue repurposed dress, Easter dress, yellow linen dress (maybe I started the dramatic sleeve trend :0)

Fall/ Winter:

LBD, Sweater dress, leopard print dress

Pants: Just one: Denim pants

Tops: Tank top, white peplum, scuba knit top, and Leopard print crop top

 

The animal print top was awesome. I had an AHA moment as I experimented with the neckband on a Monday night and ended up with this amazing tutorial you can check out here:

If you like the video, please subscribe to my youtube channel as I plan on adding a lot more content this year 🙂

Outerwear: I made a boucle/wool blend jacket and a DIY wool cape:

Yes- That is my hair up in a bun and it made me go from 5 feet 4 to 6 feet in a matter of minutes 😀

And finally, sewing for little people!

I made five dresses for my daughter:

linen dress, minnie mouse dress, easter dress and blue dress (I dont think I blogged this one)

I made a 5th dress for her to go using the same fabric as the wide leg denim pants but I never got around to blogging them, but you can see it here

 

I also did some sewing for Haiti

That is ALL Fashionistas.. So what do you say? I think its a good amount of sewing for one year. I dont know that I will ever be content with the amount of sewing I get done, but its nice to look back and reflect on a production and fun sewing year!

Want to see my makes from the previous year? They are documented HERE

I’m still working on that musln peplum I started. I started filming a tutorial on how to ease the princess seams and I have to say, the geeky stuff like lighting and positioning is not my strength, but I will try to bring a clear and concise video to you next week.

Have a LOVELY weekend.

XOXO

Vatsla 🙂

Behind The Seams: Sewing Athletic Wear!

HI, Fashionistas!

Confession: I don’t love sewing with knits. I know, I know.. I have sewn with knits a bunch, but I still don’t love it.  Why? Probably because of fear. I can work with a woven garment all day, sew, drape, do flat pattern making (for wovens) and never thing twice. But knits intimidate me. Why you ask? Because every knit is different. Some stretch a bit, some stretch a lot, some stretch 2 ways (selvage to selvage), some stretch 4 ways (along both the cross grain and the straight grain). There is a lot more that needs to be taken into account. There is negative ease, stretch percentage, elasticity and many more things you have to take into account.

Anyways.. I recently had the opportunity to make athletic wear for a new fabric that is making its debut next month. I ordered the fabric, but I decided against making athletic wear.  I’ve recently started working out and I’ve been fascinated by all the interesting and intricate athletic wear worn by women. I mean, I own a  sports bra, and a few basic workout pants. In the past, I never thought about work our wear being fashionable, but it is! I’ve been mesmerized by the different cuts, color blocking, patterns and the use of mesh. There is decorative cover stitching and top stitching, something I have never done on knits. I use my cover stitch to hem, and that’s about it. While I have drafted a gusset (the diamond shaped fabric insert typically sewn into the armholes and crotches of athletic wear), I have never sewn one. So, I decided that I would learn from my last experience, which was making this DIY Silk Top, and learn to work with my cover stitch machine before jumping into sewing athletic wear.

I’ve been eyeing this class on craftsy that shows all the functions a cover stitch machine can do, so when I got a coupon code today I jumped on it

Here is the cover stitch class I just purchased. The coupon code is below.  You can get any class for $14.99. Yipee!!! You can view their sleection of sewing and pattern making classes HERE

Don’t know about you guys, but I love myself a nice deal! If you have considered pattern making classes, see my review of all the pattern making classes HERE

I have this cover stitch machine. Like I said, I have only used it for hemming, but this machine has a lot more to offer. So I am jumping into learning mode RAT now. 🙂

So I am off to my studio to watch the class while I sew. I am currently doing muslin making for a peplum I am making. I’ve been asked so many times why I make a muslin, whether I always make one etc, so I am currently working on a Muslin FAQ blog post that I will publish either next Tuesday or the following Tuesday, so stay tuned for that!

I hope you all are having a fabulous week. What do you have planned for the weekend? Hubby and I are going to go see some land for a potential lake house- so exciting. That,  and Church, the usual Sunday stuff. I am hoping to wear this peplum to match this dress I made for my daughter a few weeks ago. We are expecting temps in the high 70’s

This is coming to the blog soon! Talk soon!

XOXO-

Vatsla.

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