Category: Pattern Making

Flat pattern making, pattern manipulation and pattern alterations

DIY Black Wool Cape

HI Fashionistas!

Hope you are doing well and enjoying the cooler temps. I’ve really been enjoying my fall sewing. I recently wrapped up this black cape with arm slits.

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I had purchased something similar last month and while I loved the style, I did not love the fabric. The fabric was itchy and “synthetic-y” if you know what I mean. I simply love capes. So I decided to recreate the look in a nicer fabric. I chose this wool/cotton blend. It’s made of 100% natural fibers and is way more lux than the original one I wore here.

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My cape is collarless and simple, this will allow me to wear it just the way it is, or accessorize with different collars/ neck warmers to maximize its use in my wardrobe. 

I added vintage gold buttons as you can see in the pic below. I knew I wanted some gold hardware on it but decided to keep it fairly simple. These are shank buttons I recently found at an estate sale.

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Sewing quick tip: To stabilize a shank button and keep it from drooping, add a regular 2 hole or 4 hole button on the back. While you are sewing the shank button on the front, loop your thread through the regular button on the back. That will keep it from drooping.

My favorite look is with the fur collar, re-purposed from another coat, paired with long gloves. I found these while antiquing with a friend.

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I drafted the pattern and facings:

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I decided to use contrast bias tape on the inside of the garment. I made the bias tape, thanks to a YouTube tutorial. Using a bias tape maker is so simple, and you can create any color or use a nice print!

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I recently purchased this set of bias tape makers and they are so fun and easy to use! I highly recommend them. On the hem of the cape, I used store bought bias tape and then hemmed it.

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Here is the view from the side:

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Here is a slightly different way I styled the same outfit. DIY Faux fur collar made by my mum in law with the cape on top, to show off those gorgeous buttons!

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The cape is unlined. I decided to try the self-bound seam on the inside of the cape.  The fabric is on the medium side for a wool. I started off with drafting the pattern with 1/2 inch seam allowance, but given the turn of cloth, I decided to upgrade to a 5/8 inch seam allowance.  The seams turned out nicely, but there was a bit of waviness on the side seams around the shoulders.  Looking back, I think a hong kong finish would be nicer. But this is what I love about sewing, we learn something new with every project.

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Pattern: I self-drafted the pattern for this one. Drafting a pattern for a cape is fairly simple, as is fitting. I studied pattern making with Suzy Furrer at Apparel Arts, a school she founded and runs. She is brilliant. Luckily offers pattern making classes on craftsy now and I am enrolled in all her classes for a refresher course.  I am linking her craftsy classes HERE in case you want to check them out.  For making upper body garments, you would want to start with the Bodice sloper class.  Then you would learn how to manipulate the sloper to create your own designs. I actually just re-ordered my textbook to go along with her classes.

This project was so fun to make! I want to make another cape for winter, so I’ll be looking for some more sewing inspiration.  What about you? What’s your latest fall project?

Lastly, I created a small sewing Q&A group that I hope will double as a sewing space for us to asks sewing questions and also get sewing inspiration from each other. You can join the group HERE

Hope you had a wonderful Halloween! See you soon!

XOXO

-Vatsla 🙂

Who Wore it Best? 80’s Prom dress turned Minnie Mouse!

HI Fashionistas!

Hope you are having a good week so far! My daughter turned three last month and we celebrated by having her friends over at a bounce house. She requested a pink Minnie Mouse dress for her birthday and I had exactly what I wanted to make in mind. A few weeks before her party, I was out shopping at Estate sales, which is a hobby of mine. I came across this prom dress from the 80’s that screamed shoulder pads and sleeve headings. But I saw the potential. All I could think was Minnie Mouse 🙂 So I did some nip and tuck and gave this dress a makeover.

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Behind The Seams: What I am working on

HI Fashionistas!
I hope that you are having a wonderful week so far! It’s only Tuesday but it feels like end of the week for me 🙂

We usually tend to stay home during the 1st half of the week just catching up on mundane chores like laundry and cleaning . But this week has been pleasantly cool and cloudy.. So my kid and I left the house each morning this week for breakfast and errands..

Here are some of the things I am currently working on:

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Finishing up UFO’s: I never shared these pants with you, but I made these in January while on vacation. I did not have my serger then, so I seam ripped them when I got home, in hoped of re-constructing it after serging all the raw edges. Well fast forward EIGHT months, I finally got to it… At least I did not wait until 2017 🙂 The pic has a lot of wrinkles between the waist and the hips. That is because the back zipper broke right before I was getting ready to do pictures… So Ya.. a few safety pins are holding these pants together on the centre back seam… thus all the wrinkles.. I proceeded with pics anyways!

I also finished a matchy matchy dress I sewed up for my daughter in February.. I don’t even know that this will fit her anymore..

These are made with a beautiful denim sateen.. Just love this fabric.  Pattern self drafted..

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Also- I am SO sick of misplacing my tools, so I designed a work belt/ tool apron that I can have all my most frequently used tools in. I plan on sewing this up today. The pattern is already done. I want all the tools to pack put of their pockets/ slots for easy access. There will be a designated slot for all the items in the picture.. These are most things I use while sewing.. some over lap into pattern making.. This way I can remove my tool belt from my hip every night.. and hang it up.. and the next day I know where everything is.. Less time looking for stuff = more time sewing stuff 🙂

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Also- do you remember this fabric I found at Joanns?  I sewed up a full sleeve crop top from that. It’s a UFO at the moment.. but coming soon.. I need to try a new neckline technique on it (New tutorial coming soon as well).. But it is ALMOST done.. don’t you just love adding things to your UFO stash..

 

Besides that… just trying to catch up on blogging. OH I totally forgot.. I made this GORGEOUS peplum top… how could I forget.. I’ll try to post it to the blog this week

#peplum in progress ✂️✂️💗💗. Loving this scuba knit from @joann_stores #diy #fashionblogger #fashionbehindtheseams #sewing #mommyandme

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Cut today, wear tomorrow 💗✂️ #fashionbehindtheseams #peplum #isew #scubaknit

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I was thinking of photographing this top today… but hey.. I would rather be sewing..

Enjoy the rest of your week.. Any fun sewing projects you have on the agenda for this week or the weekend?

XOXO-

Vatsla.

 

Date Night Tank Top

HI Fashionistas!!

I have been sewing up a storm. The last week was probably the busiest sewing week of the year for me. I was working on multiple projects for myself and also many for VBS. Starting today, I am in mental vacation mode and also in selfish sewing mode. All I want to do is eat, sleep and sew! While that is not exactly possible, I do plan on spending every free moment in my studio.

Here is my latest sewing project. I made this DIY Date night tank top.

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All White For Summer…

Hi Fashionistas!

I hope you are well and enjoying the summer. A couple of summers ago, I purchased a white linen maxi skirt.  It has the perfect fit, the perfect length, with one problem. The linen was so lightweight that you could see the outline of my thighs through it. The skirt didn’t get as much wear as I expected. I decided to make a similar skirt in a thicker linen. Here is what I came up with

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Little Black dress for May

Hi Fashionistas!

I hope you are doing fashionably well! The month of May is typically a busy month for my family and I. We celebrate Mother’s day, my birthday and wedding anniversary all in the same month.

Typically, we take our annual trip around this time.. but honestly, this year it seems like we have just been taking it one day at a time. So given its my birthday month, I figured I would sew up a cute Little black dress.

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The fabric is a textured double knit. I like that this fabric is sturdy like a ponte knit, but has more than a moderate stretch. I love the way this dress feels on! I’ll be making my daughter a matching skater skirt soon!

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If you want to make this, see the “Behind The Seams” section at the end of this post. I have included details of pattern, fabric, and how to draft the flounce.

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This really is a quick and easy project. I made this the same day as the fabric arrived. I had NO intentions of sewing that day, but I had just picked my kid up from preschool and as soon as I saw that box on my porch, my plans changed.

 

Here is the back view. Just check out the photobomb! She thinks she is such a diva! 🙂 Hehe

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For the makeup, I kept is simple yet bold. A red lip and dark eye makeup. That’s it!

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PATTERN: I used Mccalls M6886, one of the easiest and simplest patterns out there. I cut view C, shortened the sleeves, chopped off the skirt where I wanted to add the flounce. I self drafted the flounce. Drafting a flounce is exactly the same as drafting a peplum. So use my tutorial HERE and instead of using your waist measurement, use the circumference of wherever you chose to insert the flounce.

I have modified this pattern so many times before.. I have a hard time sewing a pattern out of the envelope. I am like that person who ALWAYS has to customize their meal at a restaurant.. 🙂 Here are the other garments I have made using Mcalls M6886

FABRIC: The fabric is a textured double knit that can be found HERE

SEWING: This is an easy project. If you don’t like inserting sleeves in the round, you can use my tutorial HERE to add sleeves the easy way. I used my serger to sew this up. You can use a sewing machine with a ball point and a stretch stitch as well. I cover hemmed the neckline and sleeves and left the hem on the flounce raw as it will not fray. If you don’t have a coverstitch machine, you can do a beautiful cover hem using a twin needle. See my tutorial on that HERE

I hope you enjoyed my DIY project and that this inspired you to sew 🙂

Until next time!
XOXO

-Vatsla

 

 

 

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