Category: Pattern Making

Flat pattern making, pattern manipulation and pattern alterations

Craftsy Class Review and Pattern Making Book Review

HI Fashionistas!!!

Hope you had a fabulous Thanksgiving and are enjoying a nice weekend.I am not one to shop the early  morning sales on Black Friday but I do appreciate a good deal that can be scored from my laptop on the comfort of my couch. One that doesn’t require an “early bird” special and does not entice you into a brick and mortar store to bombard you with more specials.

Here are some of my favorite sewing related Black Friday sales that I want to share with you. I already own and recommend a lot of these items so I wanted to share them with you in case you are interested:

My absolute favorite are the following sales on all  Craftsy classes on sale for $ 17.99

I studied with Suzy Furrer at Apparel Arts a while back. She is now also teaching on craftsy and I have all of her online pattern making classes

I got to visit with Suzy earlier this year and tour the new location of Apparel Arts, which is fabulous .

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Here are the classes I am currently registered for. I highly recommend all of them. Suzy is an excellent teacher and also very responsive.

We studied pattern making at Apparel Arts in this order. Now you can benefit from her classes at home! If you want to learn pattern making, these would be the classes to take in order to build a good foundation.

Skirt Sloper : Click HERE

Here are a couple skirts I made for my final collection while studying with her:

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Bodice Sloper : Click HERE

From a bodice sloper, you can draft dresses , tops. jackets. Here is a dress and jacket I self-drafted using my bodice sloper:

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Dart Manipulation/Seam Lines : Click HERE

This class focusses on taking the basic slopers drafted for the body and then manipulating them into different style elements. For example, here you will learn how to change a basic darts on your sloper into princess seams, gathers, pleats, tucks etc.

Here is a good example of manipulating a bodice sloper into a sweetheart strappless neckline and also manipulating the darts into princess seams. (ps- that isnt alkee-hol, i just posed for my final collection :))

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Another example fo a self-drafted garment is this one.  You also learn about adding excess ease and then removing it in the form of pleats (which are dart equivalents)

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Creative Necklines : Click HERE

Collars/Closures : Click HERE

Sleeves : Click HERE

You know sleeves are big this fall. Dramatic sleeves are in. You can learn how to make bishop sleeves, bell sleeves etc. Here is a bell sleeve I drafted this summer.

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Pants : Click HERE

Here is a pair of pants I drafted in school. Not the best fabric choice,which caused the wrinkles. But being a novice, I can see why I selected this fabric. These pants in a stretch denim would be so cute! Hindsight is 20/20 🙂

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Her latest classes are based on wardrobe building. I have registered for one of these, but have not watched it yet. You can view those HERE

I also highly recommend her textbook, which is the Bible of Pattern Making. You can find it HERE

In fact, I just purchased a second copy because I misplaced my original one

All classes are $17.99 for the black Friday sale which I think is an excellent deal. I have been purchasing craftsy classes for years and on average I pay $30 to $35 for each class.

I have also taken and reviewed the following classes in the past. They are both for tailoring a coat:

The first one is Essential Guide to Tailoring: Structure & Shape and the second one is Essential Guide to Tailoring: Construction

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You can read my review of these classes HERE and see the final garment HERE

I hope this post helps you see how these classes can help someone who wants to be a self-taught fashion designer. Gone are the days where you needed to take out crazy student loans and go to fashion school. regardless of whether you want to be creative and design for yourself, or be a self-taught designer and turn into a career option, the sky is the limit. With online learning, it IS possible!

Let me know if you like online learning. Just last night I was watching a video on drafting cowl pants. There is so much to learn, it never gets old!

I am heading down to the studio in a bit to work on my cowl pants and purchase  few more classes ! Hope you are well and I will see you soon with my next sewing post.

Happy Black Friday!!!

XOXO

Vatsla.

 

 

DIY Black Wool Cape

HI Fashionistas!

Hope you are doing well and enjoying the cooler temps. I’ve really been enjoying my fall sewing. I recently wrapped up this black cape with arm slits.

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I had purchased something similar last month and while I loved the style, I did not love the fabric. The fabric was itchy and “synthetic-y” if you know what I mean. I simply love capes. So I decided to recreate the look in a nicer fabric. I chose this wool/cotton blend. It’s made of 100% natural fibers and is way more lux than the original one I wore here.

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My cape is collarless and simple, this will allow me to wear it just the way it is, or accessorize with different collars/ neck warmers to maximize its use in my wardrobe. 

I added vintage gold buttons as you can see in the pic below. I knew I wanted some gold hardware on it but decided to keep it fairly simple. These are shank buttons I recently found at an estate sale.

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Sewing quick tip: To stabilize a shank button and keep it from drooping, add a regular 2 hole or 4 hole button on the back. While you are sewing the shank button on the front, loop your thread through the regular button on the back. That will keep it from drooping.

My favorite look is with the fur collar, re-purposed from another coat, paired with long gloves. I found these while antiquing with a friend.

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I drafted the pattern and facings:

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I decided to use contrast bias tape on the inside of the garment. I made the bias tape, thanks to a YouTube tutorial. Using a bias tape maker is so simple, and you can create any color or use a nice print!

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I recently purchased this set of bias tape makers and they are so fun and easy to use! I highly recommend them. On the hem of the cape, I used store bought bias tape and then hemmed it.

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Here is the view from the side:

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Here is a slightly different way I styled the same outfit. DIY Faux fur collar made by my mum in law with the cape on top, to show off those gorgeous buttons!

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The cape is unlined. I decided to try the self-bound seam on the inside of the cape.  The fabric is on the medium side for a wool. I started off with drafting the pattern with 1/2 inch seam allowance, but given the turn of cloth, I decided to upgrade to a 5/8 inch seam allowance.  The seams turned out nicely, but there was a bit of waviness on the side seams around the shoulders.  Looking back, I think a hong kong finish would be nicer. But this is what I love about sewing, we learn something new with every project.

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Pattern: I self-drafted the pattern for this one. Drafting a pattern for a cape is fairly simple, as is fitting. I studied pattern making with Suzy Furrer at Apparel Arts, a school she founded and runs. She is brilliant. Luckily offers pattern making classes on craftsy now and I am enrolled in all her classes for a refresher course.  I am linking her craftsy classes HERE in case you want to check them out.  For making upper body garments, you would want to start with the Bodice sloper class.  Then you would learn how to manipulate the sloper to create your own designs. I actually just re-ordered my textbook to go along with her classes.

This project was so fun to make! I want to make another cape for winter, so I’ll be looking for some more sewing inspiration.  What about you? What’s your latest fall project?

Lastly, I created a small sewing Q&A group that I hope will double as a sewing space for us to asks sewing questions and also get sewing inspiration from each other. You can join the group HERE

Hope you had a wonderful Halloween! See you soon!

XOXO

-Vatsla 🙂

Who Wore it Best? 80’s Prom dress turned Minnie Mouse!

HI Fashionistas!

Hope you are having a good week so far! My daughter turned three last month and we celebrated by having her friends over at a bounce house. She requested a pink Minnie Mouse dress for her birthday and I had exactly what I wanted to make in mind. A few weeks before her party, I was out shopping at Estate sales, which is a hobby of mine. I came across this prom dress from the 80’s that screamed shoulder pads and sleeve headings. But I saw the potential. All I could think was Minnie Mouse 🙂 So I did some nip and tuck and gave this dress a makeover.

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Behind The Seams: What I am working on

HI Fashionistas!
I hope that you are having a wonderful week so far! It’s only Tuesday but it feels like end of the week for me 🙂

We usually tend to stay home during the 1st half of the week just catching up on mundane chores like laundry and cleaning . But this week has been pleasantly cool and cloudy.. So my kid and I left the house each morning this week for breakfast and errands..

Here are some of the things I am currently working on:

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Finishing up UFO’s: I never shared these pants with you, but I made these in January while on vacation. I did not have my serger then, so I seam ripped them when I got home, in hoped of re-constructing it after serging all the raw edges. Well fast forward EIGHT months, I finally got to it… At least I did not wait until 2017 🙂 The pic has a lot of wrinkles between the waist and the hips. That is because the back zipper broke right before I was getting ready to do pictures… So Ya.. a few safety pins are holding these pants together on the centre back seam… thus all the wrinkles.. I proceeded with pics anyways!

I also finished a matchy matchy dress I sewed up for my daughter in February.. I don’t even know that this will fit her anymore..

These are made with a beautiful denim sateen.. Just love this fabric.  Pattern self drafted..

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Also- I am SO sick of misplacing my tools, so I designed a work belt/ tool apron that I can have all my most frequently used tools in. I plan on sewing this up today. The pattern is already done. I want all the tools to pack put of their pockets/ slots for easy access. There will be a designated slot for all the items in the picture.. These are most things I use while sewing.. some over lap into pattern making.. This way I can remove my tool belt from my hip every night.. and hang it up.. and the next day I know where everything is.. Less time looking for stuff = more time sewing stuff 🙂

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Also- do you remember this fabric I found at Joanns?  I sewed up a full sleeve crop top from that. It’s a UFO at the moment.. but coming soon.. I need to try a new neckline technique on it (New tutorial coming soon as well).. But it is ALMOST done.. don’t you just love adding things to your UFO stash..

 

Besides that… just trying to catch up on blogging. OH I totally forgot.. I made this GORGEOUS peplum top… how could I forget.. I’ll try to post it to the blog this week

#peplum in progress ✂️✂️💗💗. Loving this scuba knit from @joann_stores #diy #fashionblogger #fashionbehindtheseams #sewing #mommyandme

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Cut today, wear tomorrow 💗✂️ #fashionbehindtheseams #peplum #isew #scubaknit

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I was thinking of photographing this top today… but hey.. I would rather be sewing..

Enjoy the rest of your week.. Any fun sewing projects you have on the agenda for this week or the weekend?

XOXO-

Vatsla.

 

Date Night Tank Top

HI Fashionistas!!

I have been sewing up a storm. The last week was probably the busiest sewing week of the year for me. I was working on multiple projects for myself and also many for VBS. Starting today, I am in mental vacation mode and also in selfish sewing mode. All I want to do is eat, sleep and sew! While that is not exactly possible, I do plan on spending every free moment in my studio.

Here is my latest sewing project. I made this DIY Date night tank top.

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All White For Summer…

Hi Fashionistas!

I hope you are well and enjoying the summer. A couple of summers ago, I purchased a white linen maxi skirt.  It has the perfect fit, the perfect length, with one problem. The linen was so lightweight that you could see the outline of my thighs through it. The skirt didn’t get as much wear as I expected. I decided to make a similar skirt in a thicker linen. Here is what I came up with

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