There are more than one way to hem a circle skirt, but here is my go to method. I use this method on all my circular hems and end up with a nice and crisp hem free of wrinkles.
I also used the same hemming technique on the black circle skirt above and the silk dress below I made for Easter earlier this year
I am using a miniature pattern for the sake of this demo. You will be hemming in the round, since you will close up all your seams before hemming. I am using a small sample, but you get the point..
Step 1: Serge all around your hem. This will give you a guideline to press the serged part of the hem under and also give some weight to your hem.
Step 2: Finger press the serged portion of the hem towards wrong side of the fabric and top stitch it down around the circumference of the hem
Give your hem an overall good press. The hem will look like this on the correct side of the garment. At this point you see only one row of stitching as shown below.
Step 3: Repeat Step 2! In this final step, finger press the hem over one more time to conceal the serged portion. This will give you a nice and clean finish on the outside AND on the inside of the garment.
Give the hem a good press. I use heat, steam and my tailors clapper at this point. I always use a press cloth. Here is what the inside of the garment will look like. You will see two visible rows of stitching on the incorrect side.
On the correct side of the garment, you will see only one row of stitching.
As you can see, the hem is nice and crisp, and has no wrinkles!
Here is an example of the issue you have probably run into when trying to hem a circle skirt…
If you don’t have a serger, you can replace step 1 with the following: Mark the distance you want to turn under (I would do 3/8 inch, same as the width of my serged portion) and press, proceed to step 2. It is going to be easier to work with if you use a serger in step 1.
The basic concept behind why this method works is simple. If you look at the diagram below, the dark blue line is the raw edge of the garment. The turquoise color line represents the final hemline after the garment has been hemmed. The pink shaded area in between is what is called the Hem allowance.
The dark blue line is a larger circle (circumference measurement C) than the turquoise line (circumference measurement A). So if you try to turn the hem allowance under in one go, you will never get a perfect hem because C will always be larger than A. However, by doing this in multiple steps, we reduce the discrepancy between C and A in iterations. The stitching also helps. If you eliminate the stitching in step 2, you are likely to see wrinkling.
I hope this helped you! If you liked this tutorial, then check out the rest of my tutorials HERE
Let me know what you think of this technique, and do you have another go to sewing technique for hems? Leave me a comment and let me know!