Tag: fashion behind the seams

How to Draft a Petal Sleeve : Tutorial

Hi Fashionistas!

I have been meaning to film this quick video on how to draft a petal sleeve or tulip sleeve, but for some reason, it’s taking the longest.  I’ve been trying to film overhead so I can give you the best possible angle so you can see the pattern making. I’ve also been trying out new equipment like a new audio recorder. To be honest, I am not very tech savvy and even editing a video in I movie intimidates me! So I am back to doing it the simple way. I took a bunch of pictures and I will just walk you through it! It is very easy!

Before we jump in, let’s have a look at a sample I made from the pattern I drafted for this demo. A petal sleeve is a two piece sleeve where you as the designer chooses whether the back overlaps the front, or whether the front overlaps the back.  You can see examples of both below

 

Now let’s jump into the drafting!

Step 1: Take any basic sleeve. If this is your 1st time drafting a petal sleeve, pick a basic sleeve that does not have much design detail. In other words, stay away from a sleeve that already has gathers, tucks, pleats etc..

Before we move forward, let us look at the anatomy of the sleeve. As you can see below, we have the double notch indicating the back of the sleeve, the single notch indicating the front of the sleeve, the grain line and also the shoulder notch. The shoulder notch is the location where the sleeve connects to the shoulder seam on the bodice. On commercial patterns, you may see a circle instead of the shoulder notch.

Step 2: Trace 2 copies of your sleeve pattern. If you have a needlepoint tracing wheel, you can use this to trace. If not, you can also place a semi-opaque paper on top of your original pattern and trace it that way.

Be sure to copy the notches onto the copies of the sleeve.

Step 3: Measure 2-3 inches out from the shoulder notch along the shoulder cap and mark a new notch. I have shown that in black. We will be creating the back petal sleeve in this step

Using either free handing or a french curve, connect the corner where the side seam and the hem meet to the black notch on the opposite side of the sleeve as shown below.

Cut along this curved line. This below is now your back petal of the sleeve. The double notch on this patterns indicates the back of the sleeve.

Step 4:

Flip the piece you just drafted on step 3 and place it on the 2nd copy you traced in step 2.    Now trace the curve on the 2nd copy of sleeve as shown below:

Cut along the newly traced line.

This is the front of the sleeve.

 

Now if you match the sleeve front and the sleeve back at the shoulder seam, you have a brand new petal sleeve! Be sure to copy the grain line over to both pattern pieces!

That is pretty much it!

If you overlay the 2 new sleeve pieces on top of the original sleeve you traced from, you will notice that it matches perfectly. The fit of the sleeve is not impacted by this pattern changed and you can decide whether you want the front to overlap the back or for the back to overlap the front!

Sewing Tip: If you are using a knit, you can hem the petals individually as you would normally hem a knit by turning it under. If you are sewing with a woven, I highly recommend lining the sleeve for a clean finish. You could self-line or line with an interesting bright fabric or print lining for a pop of color!

Here is a sample I sewed up with this pattern:

 

I hope you enjoyed this and found it helpful. Now IF I figure out how to work this monstrosity of a gadget below, I will turn these images into a quick slide show and do a voice over and make a quick video for those of you who are like me and get confused by a lot of words.

 

Talk soon Fashionistas. Let me know. did you find this helpful? What else would you like to see?

Thanks!!

Vatsla 🙂

The Seamstress Tag

Hello!!

I told you last week I was trying to upload the seamstress tag to youtube and I was having so many technical difficulties!

I did get it uploaded that night and wanted to share it with you. Its a set of 12 questions that I answered. I will include the video here and also the 12 questions below! If you are unable to open the embedded video, you can find it HERE

Here are the 12 questions. I had so much fun filming this, although I have to say it’s strange seeing yourself on video!

SEAMSTRESS TAG QUESTIONS
1) Who are you?
2) When & why did you start sewing?
3) What is your favorite or proudest make?
4) What is your most disastrous make?
5) Where is your favorite place to go fabric shopping?
6) What is your most used pattern?
7) Your most dreaded sewing task is…
8) And your favorite sewing task?
9) What is your favorite ‘sewing entertainment’?
10) Printed or PDF?
11) What sewing machine do you use?
12) Do you have any other hobbies?

So I have been busy sewing and photographing new items. Seems too busy lately, I think I need a mental vacation!

How are you and what are you up to? Leave me a comment. I would love to hear from my sewing peeps!

XO

Vatsla

Mommy and Me Dresses in Blue

HI Fashionistas!!! Happy FriYAY!!!

This month I made another mommy and me outfit.

I did a franken-pattern with the bodice of McCalls M7121  (or HERE for larger sizes) and the skirt of McCalls M7386

At first, I wanted to make a maxi dress for myself, but as I got into the construction of the garment, I wanted to be able to wear just the maxi skirt, so I ended up making 2 pieces, that can give the illusion of a dress when worn together belted.

This first look is quite summery. I plan on wearing it to our upcoming family trip. The fabric is a 4-way stretch knit that is 92% tactel Nylon Microfiber and 8 % lycra. 

Side view if I wore these as a 2 piece. I ended up putting in a facing on the skirt since I decided to keep it as a skirt instead of sewing it to the bodice:

If I wear this as a one piece, I use the facing of the skirt as a waist band, so instead of being tucked into the skirt, it is flipped up above the skirt and tucked in under the bodice. Then I am able to belt it and Voila! It looks and feels like a one-piece dress!

The best part about this fabric is how breathable it is. I did not feel hot in it, even with a self-lined bodice. The fabric moves so beautifully. Isn’t that the true pleasure of wearing a maxi?

Here is the back view.Quite a few people have asked me about how I get these curls. I use the Jose Eber curling wand that I got on amazon a while back. It takes only 30 mins to curl all that hair, as opposed to over an hour to straighten, so I do this when in a rush. This is 4th-day hair, and my hair is still holding the curls.

Side view belted:

I also made a  high-low dress for my daughter. I ordered 3 yards of the fabric and it was just enough! Here is a simple A-line dress with a high-low hem and some ruffles on the neck!

So much love from this munchkin! 

Yay, it’s Friday!! What do you have planned? We are going out for ice cream, and I am doing some gardening on Saturday with a dear friend. Let me know what you are up to. Any sewing plans?!!

XO-

Vatsla 🙂

10 Minute Silk Scarf!

HI, Fashionistas!

I made a 10-minute scarf using leftover from the silk top I made last month. Basically, I ordered 2 yards of the fabric, and whatever was leftover was 2 long skinny rectangles. I seamed them together to create one long skinny rectangle and then hemmed on all four sides.

 

The fabric is a silk cotton blend that I previously used HERE. I styled the scarf with all white and a nude pump. This pretty print deserves to the the focal point of the outfit 🙂

It was so easy to make and so cute! Love these instant gratification projects! Have you every used leftover scraps to make something fun? Let me know in the comments below!

Here is the original silk top of which I used the leftovers.

April is a really busy sewing month for me. I just wrapped up a mommy and me outfit and I am starting another one that I will share with you next week! Hope you are well!!

XOXO

Vatsla 🙂

I’m sew very late :) A year in review- 2016

HI Loves.. I am SO late in writing this post, but better late than never right? In my defense,  I am getting it done before the end of the 1st quarter. so It’s all good.

As always I wanted to reflect on the year gone by, but Jan, Feb and March have come and gone. and I still haven’t sat down and done that.. so here goes:

Here are all my 2016 makes..

Skirts: I was honestly surprised that I only made 3 skirts last year!

Box pleat circle skirt , white linen maxi, and white denim pencil skirt. All three skirts were self-drafted.

Drafting skirts is the easiest if you are interesting in pattern making. I talked about the skirt sloper class HERE

Dresses: I made a total of six dresses (wohoo)

Summer/ Spring:  blue repurposed dress, Easter dress, yellow linen dress (maybe I started the dramatic sleeve trend :0)

Fall/ Winter:

LBD, Sweater dress, leopard print dress

Pants: Just one: Denim pants

Tops: Tank top, white peplum, scuba knit top, and Leopard print crop top

 

The animal print top was awesome. I had an AHA moment as I experimented with the neckband on a Monday night and ended up with this amazing tutorial you can check out here:

If you like the video, please subscribe to my youtube channel as I plan on adding a lot more content this year 🙂

Outerwear: I made a boucle/wool blend jacket and a DIY wool cape:

Yes- That is my hair up in a bun and it made me go from 5 feet 4 to 6 feet in a matter of minutes 😀

And finally, sewing for little people!

I made five dresses for my daughter:

linen dress, minnie mouse dress, easter dress and blue dress (I dont think I blogged this one)

I made a 5th dress for her to go using the same fabric as the wide leg denim pants but I never got around to blogging them, but you can see it here

 

I also did some sewing for Haiti

That is ALL Fashionistas.. So what do you say? I think its a good amount of sewing for one year. I dont know that I will ever be content with the amount of sewing I get done, but its nice to look back and reflect on a production and fun sewing year!

Want to see my makes from the previous year? They are documented HERE

I’m still working on that musln peplum I started. I started filming a tutorial on how to ease the princess seams and I have to say, the geeky stuff like lighting and positioning is not my strength, but I will try to bring a clear and concise video to you next week.

Have a LOVELY weekend.

XOXO

Vatsla 🙂

Flow Away Like a Butterfly!

HI Fashionistas:

My latest make is a beautiful flowy and drapey self-drafted circle top that makes me feel like a beautiful butterfly.  The colors on this fabric are so vibrant, and the color combination on the fabric is one of my favorites:

This fabric might have been the most beautiful fabric I have ever touched. It is a silk cotton blend, feels so soft to the touch. Has more body than a pure sheer silk, and while it was slightly more stable because of the fiber content, I did have some challenges that I will talk about in this post.

Here is a view of the back and side view: 

:

 

So in love with these sleeves!

Here is the fabric I selected.  It is abstract, if you look at the large pic of the fabric air drying, you will see it has large butterflies. So when I ordered the fabric, I knew I had to make large flowy wing-like sleeves!

I did not know exactly how to pretreat this fabric since I typically don’t work with delicate fabrics.  I wasn’t sure if this needs to be pre-shrunk, or whether it should go to the cleaners. So I asked the fabulous Erica Bunker, who is a seasoned seamstress and has worked with a range of fabric types. She suggested I wash and press it. I did not have the heart to throw this fabric in the delicate wash in the machine. So I hand washed it. And that was so much fun.  I love to touch and feel fabric. Something about hand washing the fabric made the creation of this garment a lot more personal 

I let the fabric air dry overnight.

The top was freehanded, no pattern. I will show you a sketch so you know how to make your very own top: I declare this as the laziest pattern in the world if you decide to make a paper pattern. I just drew on the fabric itself.

On the neckline, I did a bias tape. It came out beautifully. Here is a closeup of the neckline/ neck finish.

I had just the right amount of bias tape sitting around. I did attempt to make bias tape from the silk itself, but it was not stable enough.

Now lets talk about hemming this top- I ran into some challenges here. I tried the rolled hem foot on my industrial, and I could just not get comfortable enough with it. If I were doing a rolled hem on a straight hem, that would not be an issue. But hemming circle hems can be challenging as is. Add in the slipperiness of a silk, and that makes the hemming more difficult.

So upon the advice of my mentor. I tried the rolled hem on my serger. His name is Sergio, and for the most part, he is good to me. But he just shred the silk to pieces.

It’s not his fault. My thought is that an all purpose thread was too heavy for this fabric. So I resorted to YouTube land and found out that you can add stability to silks by roll hemming 2 layers. So I tried that and it worked. I folded over the hem and rolled hem. I disengaged the knife and then trimmed really close to the hem as shown here. The hem is more “lettuce edgy” than I would like, but I can live with it.

Honestly, I meant to take this online class about sheer fabrics, but time got away from me. Now you know this is the next class I am buying.  I studied with Sara Alm at Apparel Arts and she is brilliant. I probably would have saved a lot of time and trial error had I taken the class!

They say that rolled hem is the ideal finish for sheers, but I think I would have preferred a bias tape finish on the hem as well. I might come back at a future time and apply the bias tape to the hem.

Overall.. I love this top. It’s light and fresh for spring! I paired it with white skinny jeans. I have not worn these in months and I definitely had to jump up and down to squeeze into them!

I ordered 2 yards of this fabric. What I loved about this project is that the amount of waste was very little. I used a majority of the fabric to make the top from, which is one big circle (donut) and the remaining fabric was used to create an infinity/ circle scarf.  I love an all white outfit for spring with a pop of color. I’ll share the scarf with you soon! It’s my new favorite!

The sleeves, the neckline, and the print are my favorite parts of this butterfly top.

I hope that you enjoyed reading about this make. I am getting started on my Mommy and Me Easter make after this one.

Hope you are having a fabulous week.  See you with my next make.

XOXO

Vatsla

Behind The Seams: Mommy and Me Clothing Ideas

HI Fashionistas!!

For Valentine’s Day, Fashion Behind the Seams debuted another mommy and me outfit to show the endless possibilities to play dress-up with your kiddos. It’s a great way to bring you closer to your children, and the results are undeniably cute.

Some people feel weird about looking too matchy-matchy, but it all depends on the people wearing the outfits. While couple outfits can look tacky at times, matching mother and daughter ensembles are absolutely adorable. Even celebrity moms, such as Kim Kardashian, are coordinating their clothes with their little ones. Last year, fashion reporters went crazy over Beyonce’s shoot in Paris with Blue Ivy, as Who What Wear documented the duo wearing matching florals from Gucci in different designs. The Lemonade singer has always been a role model in areas like female empowerment, music, and style, as her makeup artist reveals her tricks to contouring and strobing on The Scene. And now, she inspires us with family fashion goals.

I mean, Isn’t this mommy and me outfit absolutely adorable?!!

Now, moving on to the DIY stuff, sewing up our own mommy and me outfits:

 

 

There are a lot of sewing projects out there that you can tailor to your measurements and desired fabrics. So without further ado, here are a few to help you get started:

Shibori Dresses

Sew in Love recently shared her creations that are quite fun and perfect for summer trips to the beach. Because she loves to craft, she decided to customize her fabric using the Japanese tie-dyeing trend known as Shibori. It makes her designs completely unique and gives her plenty of colors and patterns to work with when making her clothes. This also could potentially be a tie-dying project for you and your child. As the blogger mentions, it’s hard to find dress patterns that will look good on both an adult and toddler, but the designs of her shibori dresses are quite versatile and will look great on any mother-and-daughter pair.

Split Sleeve Top and Dress

What works as a top for you will look beautiful as a dress for your daughter. Burda Style offers another sewing pattern for matching mom and daughter outfits, but this is probably one of the cutest. It’s simple in design, yet the way the fabric is draped on the sides is ultra chic. It’s a fashionable ensemble to wear to any occasion, whether you are on the beach or out to lunch in the city. Make sure to customize this outfit with jewelry!

Mix and Match Prints

Love to mix and match prints? Try making your dress using one print and your daughter’s dress in another, using pieces of each other’s fabrics to create accessories. Daily Mom went for bold orange and white horizontal stripes as her main fabric and a baby blue and white polka-dotted material for her daughter. She used her daughter’s dress material as a fabric belt on her outfit, while she added an orange octopus pattern on her kid’s neckline. Her daughter also wore an orange bow on her head.

Personally, I feel I am totally comfortable with mommy and me outfits, I am actually currently working on my next one. I posted this on Instagram last week:  I received this gorgeous fabric from Organic Cotton Plus and can’t wait to sew with it.

As you can see, this fabric is a very “happening print”. To keep the look balanced, I also ordered a limestone colored solid broadcloth. This will be the bodice for my daughters dress, the bright print will be the skirt. To ensure that this mommy and me get up does not look tacky, I will make a classic well-tailored peplum top for me in the solid color, and the print will do a mysterious “peek-a-boo”!

I cannot wait to share the details of my next mommy and me outfit with you!

Do you have any of your own Mommy and Me outfits or patterns you would like to share with me? Please leave me a comment below!

Happy Saturday sewing and see you soon!

XOXO

Vatsla

%d bloggers like this: