Tag: fashion behind the seams

How to hem knits using a twin needle

HI Folks,

Last week I did a tutorial on how to attach a sleeve and a lot of people found that helpful.  I received a request from a fellow sewist to do a tutorial on hemming knits using a twin needle, which you can see below.

This is what a twin needle looks like. It has two needles as the name suggests and it allows you to create a cover-stitch without using a cover stitch machine.  You can find this needle at fabric stores or online. For knits, make sure you are using a stretch twin needle for best results

For the purpose of this demo,  I am using a red thread on the left needle, green thread on the right needle, and yellow thread on the bobbin.

Step 1: Replace your regular needle with a twin needle.

Step 2: Adjust the needle position to make sure it does not hit the metal on the presser foot. Lower the needles manually using the handwheel to make sure the needle wont break once you start sewing.

Step 3: Threading the needles: This is a very important step. If this is not done correctly, the threads can get tangled up and cause a lot of frustration.

The left spool will be placed exactly where you place the spool when you are sewing with a single needle. The right spool will be placed where you normally place the bobbin before winding the bobbin. You will need to place an extra spool holder on top of the bobbin winder. See illustration below

Be sure to thread the left needle before you thread the right needle. If you thread them together and treat both threads as one, you will have tangling. The left needle will be threaded EXACTLY the same way you thread a single needle, so go ahead thread as normal. For the right needle, thread it exactly the same as the left needle EXCEPT the very last step. The last step of threading a needle is passing the thread through the needle bar guide before inserting the thread into the needle. You will skip this step for the right needle. Please note that your needle bar guide might look different than mine, so refer to your user manual in case yours doesnt resemble mine.

In Summary:

Left Needle: Thread this as normal, passing the thread through the needle bar guide

Right Needle:  Thread this as normal, but do not pass the thread through the needle bar guide before inserting the thread into the needle. In the illustration below I am using red arrows to show you how to thread the left needle and green arrows to show you how to thread the right needle.

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While this step is pretty universal, refer to the user manual of your machine as well.

Step 4:  Place the fabric under the presser foot with the hem folded under. Lower the needle manually once to secure the fabric. Then grab the two top threads and tuck them underneath the presser foot to avoid tangling.

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To start hemming, back-stitch twice to lock the stitch and then forward stitch. When you get to the end of your stitch, back-stitch again. This is what the hem will look like on the correct side of the garment:

This is what the hem will look like on the backside of the garment. Of course you will use the same color thread. I used different colors for the sake of the demo.

This finish can be used on necklines, armholes, sleeves, hems at the bottom of shirts, dresses, skirts etc. In this case, you will be sewing in the round. I recommend backstitching at the start and end regardless of what you are hemming. Always try the hem on scrap fabric before hemming your garment because all fabrics are different and you might need to adjust your tension accordingly.

I used this technique to hem the neckline, sleeves and bottom of this top:

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To see some garments I have hemmed using this technique, click HERE or HERE. To see other sewing tutorials, click HERE. You can find a stretch twin needle HERE.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful.  The twin needle is also used on woven fabrics as a decorative stitch. The same steps above would apply to a woven using a non stretch needle. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. I will be doing more tutorials in the near future, so please subscribe to my blog if you are interested. Also, please let me know what other topics/ tutorials you would find helpful.

See you soon!! Happy Sewing!

XOXO

Leopard print (Rawrrrr) and DIY Circle Skirt

Hello Beautiful People!

I posted last week that I was approaching my next sewing project with skepticism. I decided to pull out a leopard print double-knit fabric from my stash and make something with it. I really wanted to do a form-fitting, below the knee dress but I was afraid that would be too much print. For someone who has never sewn with prints, I decided to ease into the world on animal print by sewing something small. I decided to make a scoop neck tee and here is what I came up with. Design details below if you are interested in this DIY

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I paired the top with a pencil skirt I wear often. While I like this look and its well-balanced and harmonious, I have to admit that I am turning into a bit of a sewing snob. If I didn’t make it, I don’t have as much fun wearing it. And while pencil skirts are fun, circle skirts are SO much more fun! So for my second look, I paired this top with a  DIY circle skirt I made earlier this year.

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Here is a closeup of the top. For the neckline, I once again used the twin needle. But I am one step closer to buying a coverstitch machine. 🙂 Oh! I just realised there is a giant hexagonal orb on my skirt. Time to clean that lens!IMG_6322

 

If you are still reading this post, then i present to you, my favorite look with this new top. The beauty of fashion is that a good outfit not only makes you look good, but also makes you feel good. And that brings me to the final look I put together with this top. I LOVE a nice and comfy pair of jeans. Denim is like the chocolate cake of the fabric world. It makes you feel good every single time 🙂 Here is my favourite look:

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And can I just tell you that I am in LOVE with these obnoxiously oversized sunglasses? 🙂

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And finally folks, Its FRIDAY Wahooooooooooooooo!.Life is short, Fridays are even shorter, so be silly, eat a lot of ice cream and have a wonderful, relaxing and fashionable weekend 🙂 I’ll see you in the next blog post 🙂 Design details below for those who want to DIY the top or skirt!

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PATTERN: I used a self drafted pattern for tee and the skirt. You can use M6886 (easy) View B and chop if off at the waist. You can find the pattern HERE The circle skirt I self drafted and you can learn how to draft it HERE

FABRIC: I used a double-knit polyester from my fabric stash. You can use any knit fabric really.

SEWING: This tee is very easy to sew! I did a tutorial on how to sew this top HERE. It is an easy project and great for beginners. If you have any questions, let me know!

I hope that this inspired you to create something! Until next time, Happy Sewing and Happy Friday

XOXO

 

Pretty in Pink Tulle and Cake Pops!

Hi Folks!

I am so excited about this weeks post. As I mentioned last week, Thursday is my sewing day. Well, last week Thursday was my super sewing day. I was asked by a friend to do a photoshoot for her new website Queen City Cake Pops and she asked that I wear one of my tulle skirts.

Luckily, I had about 6 yards of pink tulle in my fabric stash, so I got to work right away. I made a gorgeous poofy midi length tulle skirt with a satin waistband Here is what I came up with. All the design details are below if you are interested in making your very own tulle skirt!

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The focal point of the pictures was a gorgeous cake pop bouquet by Queen City Cake Pops. I got to dress up in tulle and carry a bouquet! I felt like I was getting married and walking down the fairy tale isle!

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Check out the gorgeous bouquet made by Queen City Cake Pops. You can see more about QC Cake Pops HERE ! I just wanted to eat it up. Maybe I should have eaten at least one of two. Nobody would have noticed!

All these wonderful pictures were taken by Ariel Photography. I got to work with Ariel Perry, who is so much fun and quite talented. You can check out more of her work HERE

 

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I made this top as well. I posted about is last week. You can see the details of the black top HERE

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PATTERN: I used a self-drafted pattern for the skirt and waistband, but you can use Simplicity pattern 1200 HERE or any circle skirt pattern.

FABRIC: For the lining, I used a matte Satin from Hancock Fabric. I loved using this because it was in the color ivory and gave the skirt more dimension. For the Tulle, I used this fabric from Joann’s in the color “blush”. You can find it HERE. I gathered the tulle using a gathering foot. This accessory makes gathering the tulle a breeze. I highly recommend using a gathering foot.  This universal foot works with most machines:

 

SEWING:I gathered the tulle using a gathering foot. This accessory makes gathering the tulle a breeze. I highly recommend using a gathering foot. You can find one HERE. I then sewed up the side seams only on the lining. Depending on your pattern, you may not have side seams, but sew up the skirt per your pattern directions. Then I attached the tulle to the skirt using a basting stitch. Once the tulle and lining were one pieces, I attached it to the waist band, right sides together, inserted the zipper and closed up the waist band using the stitch in the ditch method. One thing to be very careful when putting a zipper in tulle is not to attach the tulle to the zipper. I usually attach the tulle half an inch away from the zipper so it does not get caught.

Ladies, I will be doing a giveaway of the simplicity pattern and the tulle fabric, so please subscribe to my blog and stay tuned if you are interested in making this skirt!

I hope that this inspired you to create something! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

XOXO

 

 

 

 

Dressed in Black: Fitted Top and High Waisted Pants

Happy Friday Peeps!

Aren’t you glad its Friday? So am I. The sun is out. It’s a beautiful day. Still very cold here and ice on the ground, but the sun feels so good. This week I am so exited about the sewing projects I have been working on. This is the first time I am wearing two garments I created. This week I decided to work on some unfinished projects. All they needed for hemming and some minor alterations. Talk about instant gratification!! The entire outfit below is made by me, top and pants:

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BRRRR.. As you can see there is still ice on the ground. I wanted something warm and cozy to wear. This outfit is perfect. It covers from head to do and is still stylish. I simply love the neckline on this top. The silhouette is very flattering, and the long sleeves give it class.

Now lets talk about the pants. I used Burda 7122. They are high-waisted wide legged pants. The thing about wide leg pants (especially if you are short) is that they can either look flattering or funny. In my opinion it’s all in the fit. I hear some many ladies complain about how they can’t wear certain styles. While there is some truth to it,  I think the right fit can make all the difference. I am 5’4″, so not tall by any means. Typically I would not wear a wide leg pant, but the high waist had me sold. A high waist can be so flattering on any body type. It created the illusion of longer legs.

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The pants have a wide waist band. I did not line these pants, instead I self faced the waist Band. There is a invisible zipper in the back. Love Love LOVE these pants and I will definitely be making more of these in the future. They were a bit too wide legged for me so I altered them to my linking.  Here is a closeup of the waist band:

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To accessorize my all black outfit, I added this gorgeous red clutch I bought in India.

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I also added this necklace that my hubby gifted me a long time ago. It’s from some boutique at the Biltmore Estate in Asheville NC.

And BOO! Just wanted to scare you with a closeup.. Isn’t the detailing on this purse AMAZING? Shopping in India is the best…seriously!

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PATTERN: The pattern for the top is self drafted. The pants pattern are Burda 7122. You can find them HERE

FABRIC: For the top, I used a jersey knit from Joanns Fabrics. You can find it HERE . For the pants, I used a gabardine from Hancock Fabrics. You can find it HERE

Well..  I still have some more sewing to do today. A last-minute photo shoot with a friend.. So I need to finish sewing up a  tulle skirt for that and head out in the next hour!

I hope that this inspired you to create something! Enjoy this beautiful day.

Happy Sewing and Happy Friday!!!

XOXO

Polka Dots and Pleats

Hi Folks!

I was planning on making a full circle skirt for this weeks projects and RTW fast, but I somehow got sidetracked and found myself drafting a pattern for a pleated skirt. I have never worn a pleated skirt before, nor have I worn polka dots in black and white. It has a straight waistband, which I think is super flattering because it gives the illusion of  shorter torso and longer legs. This helps because I am only 5’4″ 🙂

This skirt has box pleats and they are so fun! I paired it with a simple v- neck tee and a pair of black pumps. I can certainly see myself wearing this over and over again, but I will wait for warmer weather.

I can see myself making a few more of these, maybe one is a solid cobalt blue, and one in red.  I have included the design details below, if you are interested in making this skirt.

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PATTERN: I drafted the pattern myself. There are only 2 pattern pieces needed to make this skirt. I will be doing a tutorial on how to draft this skirt to your own measurements, so if you are interested in learning, please subscribe to my blog.

If you don’t want to make your own pattern, but want to make something similar, then you can use a Mccalls Pattern 6706.

SEWING: The construction of this skirt involves cutting the fabric, applying interfacing to the waistband, creating the box pleats on the skirt, attaching the skirt to the waist band and then finally inserting the zipper, and finishing the hem.  I will be doing a step by step tutorial so please subscribe to my blog if you are interested in learning.

SUPPLIES:  Fabric, pattern, 7 to 9 inch zipper, thread and sewing machine. If you are drafting your own pattern, you will also need a straight ruler, pattern paper, markers and a measuring tape.

I hope you enjoyed reading this and I hope this inspires you to sew and make something for yourself. See you next time and until then.. Happy Sewing 🙂

XOXO

 

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