Tag: pattern drafting

Happy New Year and the Little Red Dress Project!

Hello All!

Happy New Year to you! Do you have a sewing resolutions for 2017? Can you believe we are already in 2017?!!

I am so excited for all the sewing fun I have planned for 2017. I am starting off the year by sewing a red dress, for my blogiversary. I started my blog in Jan 2015 (Whoop Whoop- my two-year blogiversary is coming up). I have the feeling that 2017 is going to be some kinda special.

This is the inspiration pic for the dress! But it is possible I will change it up after making the muslin. I am known to completely scratch what I am doing or drastically change up the design, so we shall see.

So.. I did NOT make a muslin for the last bodice I drafted for this Christmas Outfit (shame on me). While it fit pretty well, there was some extra ease on the back.

 

So for this dress, I do plan on making a muslin. And because I am starting early, I have plenty of time.  The fabric has arrived. It is so lovely. It has a tiny bit of stretch, so as far as the fitting in concerned, I can fully rely on the muslin, which has no stretch at all. What I mean by that is, I will not be adding any wearing ease to my pattern when I draft it from my sloper. The tiny amount of stretch in the fabric will make up for the lack of wearing ease.

Here is the fabric. Isn’t she beautiful? 🙂

Reflecting on 2016….I hate to say it, because we are supposed to be positive and all, and while I am very grateful for all that I am blessed with, 2016 was a difficult year for me.  And my sewing had to take a back seat so much more than normal. Now moving on to the positive: as far as my sewing journey is concerned, the best thing about 2016 was the connections I made.  I LOVED hearing from your guys and seeing what you are making. Prior to that, I was sewing in solitude.

Well.. 2017 is here and I am excited about sewing more, blogging more, and connecting with you all more. So CHEERS to a lot more sewing in 2017! I wish you sewing, health and happiness!!  Let’s add more sewing to our plan! Let’s face it, responsibilities and chores and grown up things are always going to be there! Let’s just sew more and work less 🙂 Hehe.. I am dancing into 2017 with an optimistic sewing plan.. and that makes me happier than any other grown up goals I can think of. Happy Sewing in 2017!!!!

See you soon!!

Much Love,

Vatsla.

 

Dreaming of a White Christmas

HI Fashionistas!

Merry Christmas!! Hope you are having a fabulous holiday season.

I have been working on my outfit for Christmas Eve. I decided to go with a black and white holiday look. I am completely in love with monochromatic looks since they are chic and also so easy to style. You can just throw on a pair of nude pumps and a clutch and you are ready to go.

Well for my last project of the year, I decided to sew multiple garments that could give me many outfits by mixing and matching with existing pieces in my wardrobe. Help me decide if I should go all white or mix and match. I think black and white is so glam!

Look 1: I drafted the top from my bodice sloper. I changed the neckline to boat neck, which is one of my favorites.  I also drafted this skirt from my sloper and changes the waist to an empire. I chose a midi length and it’s one of my favorites. For drafting instructions for skirts, you can look into this class. I did not require any fitting as the sloper was drafted to my measurements. I love an all white look- if I chose this look. I would accessorize and add a nice warm fur for the neck and a cute clutch!

Look 2: Top and black bottoms:

A simpler, more casual look. Dressing up a pair of black skinnies with a tailored top. The top fit pretty well but required some adjustments on the back neck.  I used the instructions in this book to draft the boat neck. It is form fitting, but not skin tight.. which in my opinion is never a good look.  

Look 3: My Fav look: Peplum Belt added to Look 2. The peplum I draped on the dress form and the waistband I drafted. I wanted some high-low action and a contrast lining to peek through. If you are interested in self-drafting tops, this class has great instruction on drafting the bodice sloper.

 The pleats are facing the side seam. The peplum has a high-low hem which gives it that waterfall effect where the black lining peeks through. I posted this pic on social media and a lot of you asked about the back. I will share pictures of the back as well in a separate post where I should how to draft this peplum from scratch.

Look 4: Look 3 with a different top I have in my closet.

If you have any interest in self-drafting, I highly recommend these pattern making classes 

Well, ladies. I think for Christmas Eve, I will be going with one of look  2, 3 of 4. Not sure yet, can you help me decide?!!!

Have a wonderful Christmas and I will see you in my next blog post.

ps- I have a Christmas Giveaway coming up. Stay tuned for fabric!!!

XOXO

Vatsla

Pattern Making Tutorial: How to copy a Ready to Wear Peplum

Hi Fashionistas!!!

Peplums never go out of style! I recently got a request to demonstrate how I would create a pattern from a high low peplum on the ready to wear garment. I filmed this video for one of my readers and wanted to share if with you in case you find it helpful.

Here is the peplum I used for the demo. I made this one a while back by repurposing a dress and you can see the details of this top HERE

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The video below talks specifically about how to create a pattern for a peplum, along with a high low variation, but the same technique can be applied to any pattern piece. For example, you could use the same technique to create a pattern for a bodice front and back. If the video does not open for you, you can view it HERE

 

If you prefer to draft the peplum from scratch, you can see my simple tutorial HERE

Hope this helps and let me know if you have any questions!!

I am currently working on my winter coat. Its my biggest project of the year! I made and fitted the muslin today. I am hoping to cut into the yummy fabric this weekend.

Hope you are having a WONDERFUL weekend.

XOXO-

Vatsla 🙂

 

RTW Fast Update – A Geeky Q1 Report of sorts…

Hola Folks!

If I were still working in corporate America, I would be working on my 1st quarter end of quarter report right about now.. I would also be putting a cover sheet on my TPS report and sending it to my eight different bosses. (Anyone else love the movie Office Space?) 🙂 Luckily I have no reports to fill out, but I am excited to look back at 2015 so far and let you know how the RTW (Ready To Wear) Fast is going thus far…

Lets start with the garments I made, things I learned and the tutorials I created 🙂

GARMENTS I MADE

4 tops, 3 skirts, 2 dresses and 1 pair of pants. Total of 10 garments 🙂

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So.. I officially started the fast on Jan 23rd. Between Jan 23rd and the end of March, there were 9 weeks and I sewed 8 of the 9 weeks and completed a total of 10 garments! That’s more than one a week. I know for a fact that I would not have sewn this much had I not decided to observe the fast.

SKIRTS:

1) Box pleat skirt: Details and pics HEREIMG_5460

2) Circle Skirt: Details and pics HERE

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3) Tulle Skirt: Details and pics HERE

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TOPS

4) Black fitted cowl neck: Details and pics HERE

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5) Leopard print top: Details and pics HERE

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6) Ruffle top: Details and pics HERE

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7) Blue Peplum top. Details and pics HERE

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DRESSES:

8) V Day Dress. Details and pics HERE

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9) HI-Low dress: Details and pics HERE

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PANTS:

 

10) High Waisted Wide Leg Pants. Details and pics HERE

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THINGS I LEARNED

1) Patience 🙂

2) How to use a twin needle. Tutorial HERE

3) Commercial patterns have a ridiculous amount of ease

4) The seam ripper is my soul mate. We are in an eternal love hate relationship…

TUTORIALS

One of the main reasons I wanted to start this blog was to share my love of sewing with others but also teach others. I was able to find time when my little one naps to document a few tutorials to share with others

1) How to sew a sleeve the easy way. Click HERE
2) How to hem knits using a twin needle. Click HERE
3) How to draft a peplum. Click HERE
4) How to press a seam. Click HERE
5) Sew tight ruffles using a gathering foot. Click HERE
6) How to draft a circle Skirt. Click HERE

That concludes my nerdy end of quarter report … 😀 This has been such a fun-filled journey.. if you are someone who has been thinking of picking up a sewing machine, or encourage you to start now! If you have questions on how to get started or how to sew a particular technique, or draft a pattern, I am here to help 🙂

Hope you have are having a wonderful week. It’s almost the weekend.. and that means more time to sew. Yay..
I’ll see you soon with my next garment.. but I have to leave you with a clip from my favourite movie of all time.. Office Space. Enjoy.. XOXO

Behind The Seams: How to draft a peplum

Hi Everyone!

Looks like Tuesdays might end up being “Tutorial Tuesdays”. A few days ago, a fellow sewist shared this picture and asked how she could draft the peplum for  a blouse.  I have documented step by step instructions below on how to draft a peplum.  Peplums are really easy to draft and you need only one measurement: your waist.

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First of all I want you to think of a peplum as a baby version of a circle skirt, because that is essentially what it is. A peplum sits on the waist and looks most flattering when worn on the natural waist, which is the smallest part of the torso. The natural waist for most women is slightly above the belly button.

Some more examples of peplums….

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And here is the famous Victoria Beckham Sheath dress that you can buy for $3145… or you can learn this DIY and make your own!

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Peplums are found on blouses, dresses, skirts, jackets and come in all shapes and sizes. I have seen peplums with gathers, box pleats, inverted box pleats and many more variations.

Follow the steps below to draft your very own peplum! I  took this pictures in a rush, so excuse the free hand sketching. It’s not fancy, but if you understand the technique, then that is all the matters!

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You will need the following measurements: waist (Measurment A) and desired height of peplum (Measurement B) ,Pattern paper, tape, scissors and drafting pens or pencils.

Step 1: Draw a rectangle using measurement A and measurement B

IMG_6525Then draw lines shown in blue that are somewhat equidistant.

IMG_6526Step 2: Cut along the blue lines almost to the top, but don’t cut all the way. This allows you to spread the pattern.This is called the Splash and Spread Method

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Step 3:  Tape down the original pattern at the top. This is still our original waist measurement. On the bottom of the pattern, you will start spreading the pattern as shown below. You could insert one inch in each opening, or 2 inches for a fuller peplum. Tape down the bottom of the pattern after you have spread it.

 

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If you want a fuller peplum, you can spread the pattern even more as shown here

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Step 4: Next add seam allowance so this can be sewn up properly. Also add a hem on the bottom. I have shown this in red. This is the pattern for the front of the peplum

 

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To draft the back, all you have to do is fold the pattern above in half and add a seam allowance along the centre back to accomodate the zipper.

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Hi-Lo Variation:If you are going for a hi-lo peplum in the back, you can simply extend the centre back by your desired measurement (green line) as shown below before adding the seam allowance (shown in red)

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It was fun making it and trying out a different kind of peplum, but I think I will go back to my favorite style, which is this white one and this blue one, that I left drafted using this tutorial. If you want your peplum to have a stiff hem like my white peplum below, consider sewing in some horse hair braid to the hem. I used a one inch HHB you can find HERE

 

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Want to learn more about pattern making in a way that makes sense? Check out Suzy’s pattern making classes HERE. Suzy is brilliant. I learned everything I know about pattern making from her.

I hope this helped! If you have any questions, leave a comment and sign up for more sewing tips and tricks below!

-Vatsla 🙂

Pretty in Pink Tulle and Cake Pops!

Hi Folks!

I am so excited about this weeks post. As I mentioned last week, Thursday is my sewing day. Well, last week Thursday was my super sewing day. I was asked by a friend to do a photoshoot for her new website Queen City Cake Pops and she asked that I wear one of my tulle skirts.

Luckily, I had about 6 yards of pink tulle in my fabric stash, so I got to work right away. I made a gorgeous poofy midi length tulle skirt with a satin waistband Here is what I came up with. All the design details are below if you are interested in making your very own tulle skirt!

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The focal point of the pictures was a gorgeous cake pop bouquet by Queen City Cake Pops. I got to dress up in tulle and carry a bouquet! I felt like I was getting married and walking down the fairy tale isle!

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Check out the gorgeous bouquet made by Queen City Cake Pops. You can see more about QC Cake Pops HERE ! I just wanted to eat it up. Maybe I should have eaten at least one of two. Nobody would have noticed!

All these wonderful pictures were taken by Ariel Photography. I got to work with Ariel Perry, who is so much fun and quite talented. You can check out more of her work HERE

 

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I made this top as well. I posted about is last week. You can see the details of the black top HERE

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PATTERN: I used a self-drafted pattern for the skirt and waistband, but you can use Simplicity pattern 1200 HERE or any circle skirt pattern.

FABRIC: For the lining, I used a matte Satin from Hancock Fabric. I loved using this because it was in the color ivory and gave the skirt more dimension. For the Tulle, I used this fabric from Joann’s in the color “blush”. You can find it HERE. I gathered the tulle using a gathering foot. This accessory makes gathering the tulle a breeze. I highly recommend using a gathering foot.  This universal foot works with most machines:

 

SEWING:I gathered the tulle using a gathering foot. This accessory makes gathering the tulle a breeze. I highly recommend using a gathering foot. You can find one HERE. I then sewed up the side seams only on the lining. Depending on your pattern, you may not have side seams, but sew up the skirt per your pattern directions. Then I attached the tulle to the skirt using a basting stitch. Once the tulle and lining were one pieces, I attached it to the waist band, right sides together, inserted the zipper and closed up the waist band using the stitch in the ditch method. One thing to be very careful when putting a zipper in tulle is not to attach the tulle to the zipper. I usually attach the tulle half an inch away from the zipper so it does not get caught.

Ladies, I will be doing a giveaway of the simplicity pattern and the tulle fabric, so please subscribe to my blog and stay tuned if you are interested in making this skirt!

I hope that this inspired you to create something! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

XOXO

 

 

 

 

Behind The Seams: Catching up on UFO’s

Happy Thursday peeps!

Thursday is my sewing day, I sew every Thursday without fail. This week I am tackling a couple UFO’s (Unfinished Objects).

I decided to focus on these two, mainly because it freezing out and also because I can wear them together.

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I started working on this full sleeve top a while back. It’s a copy of a top I loved, but over time, it took too much wear and began to look hobo chic 🙂 So I decided to copy it. I created a pattern for it using my own version of the rub off technique. I am not a big fan of sewing with knits, so needless to say the project never got finished. I never finished the hem and it has been sitting in my sewing studio ever since. Since, I have conquered my fear of the twin needle and learned how to hem knits without the use of a coverstitch machine.

Here is the original top that I loved. Rest in peace my beloved. I cut this baby up to be able to replicate the pattern. I felt so horrible doing it, but it was the easiest way to clone her!

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I love the cowl neck on this top. Cute and functional. Cowl necks never really go out of style.  My paparazzi hubby took this pic while I was shopping for groceries. He is so sneaky, but this shows the cowl neck so well. I just love the way it drapes.

 

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Here is the unfinished version:

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For the pants, I chose to finish up this Pair of pants I started either earlier this year or late last year. The fabric I chose is a gabardine. Personally I don’t like using commercial patterns, mainly because in the time it takes to alter the pattern, I could draft up my own. Not to mention, the muslin making is added time. I often omit muslin making when I am using self drafted patterns.

I am working with Burda 7122 View D: High Waisted Pants.  I already made a muslin, did the fit analysis, altered the pattern and sewed up the shell. I have to admit, these pants are super long, so I need to chop off a good amount of length. I am 5′ 4″ and even with a decent sized heel, these pants are way too long. I am pretty much done with these pants, except the hem and re-applying the zipper.

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I’ll be busy sewing today. Also a dear friend asked me to be part of a photoshoot for her business and asked that I wear a tulle skirt. I do have a tulle skirt that I recently made but I am not crazy about the way it turned out. I got inspired to make a pink poofy tulle skirt for tomorrows photo shoot.. I actually already have the tulle gathered…but still need to make the skirt.. So off to the fabric store I go! I’ll be sewing late into the night.

Do you have any UFO’s in your closet? If you sew, I know you do!

I’ll be back soon with the finished products. Untill then, happy sewing!

XOXO

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