Tag: pattern making

Behind The Seams: How to draft a peplum

Hi Everyone!

Looks like Tuesdays might end up being “Tutorial Tuesdays”. A few days ago, a fellow sewist shared this picture and asked how she could draft the peplum for  a blouse.  I have documented step by step instructions below on how to draft a peplum.  Peplums are really easy to draft and you need only one measurement: your waist.

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First of all I want you to think of a peplum as a baby version of a circle skirt, because that is essentially what it is. A peplum sits on the waist and looks most flattering when worn on the natural waist, which is the smallest part of the torso. The natural waist for most women is slightly above the belly button.

Some more examples of peplums….

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And here is the famous Victoria Beckham Sheath dress that you can buy for $3145… or you can learn this DIY and make your own!

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Peplums are found on blouses, dresses, skirts, jackets and come in all shapes and sizes. I have seen peplums with gathers, box pleats, inverted box pleats and many more variations.

Follow the steps below to draft your very own peplum! I  took this pictures in a rush, so excuse the free hand sketching. It’s not fancy, but if you understand the technique, then that is all the matters!

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You will need the following measurements: waist (Measurment A) and desired height of peplum (Measurement B) ,Pattern paper, tape, scissors and drafting pens or pencils.

Step 1: Draw a rectangle using measurement A and measurement B

IMG_6525Then draw lines shown in blue that are somewhat equidistant.

IMG_6526Step 2: Cut along the blue lines almost to the top, but don’t cut all the way. This allows you to spread the pattern.This is called the Splash and Spread Method

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Step 3:  Tape down the original pattern at the top. This is still our original waist measurement. On the bottom of the pattern, you will start spreading the pattern as shown below. You could insert one inch in each opening, or 2 inches for a fuller peplum. Tape down the bottom of the pattern after you have spread it.

 

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If you want a fuller peplum, you can spread the pattern even more as shown here

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Step 4: Next add seam allowance so this can be sewn up properly. Also add a hem on the bottom. I have shown this in red. This is the pattern for the front of the peplum

 

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To draft the back, all you have to do is fold the pattern above in half and add a seam allowance along the centre back to accomodate the zipper.

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Hi-Lo Variation:If you are going for a hi-lo peplum in the back, you can simply extend the centre back by your desired measurement (green line) as shown below before adding the seam allowance (shown in red)

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It was fun making it and trying out a different kind of peplum, but I think I will go back to my favorite style, which is this white one and this blue one, that I left drafted using this tutorial. If you want your peplum to have a stiff hem like my white peplum below, consider sewing in some horse hair braid to the hem. I used a one inch HHB you can find HERE

 

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Want to learn more about pattern making in a way that makes sense? Check out Suzy’s pattern making classes HERE. Suzy is brilliant. I learned everything I know about pattern making from her.

I hope this helped! If you have any questions, leave a comment and sign up for more sewing tips and tricks below!

-Vatsla 🙂

 

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Black Hi-lo dress inspired by Pinterest- Mccalls M6886 modified

Hola Folks!! Hope you are having a wonderful Friday. I am so ready for the weekend!

Earlier this week I posted about a hi-lo t-shirt dress that was inspired by pinterest. I really did not have any time to go shopping so I was at the mercy of my fabric stash. Well.. I started off wanting to make a reversible grey and black dress, but that did not happen. I ran into SO many issues with the grey dress, it seemed like the sewing Gods were very angry with me.

I will save my rant for later, let me show what the black dress looks like. Design details below if you are interested in making your own version

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I had this slinky knit in my fabric stash.. I had about 2 yards I think, so it was long enough to make the back floor length. I really like where the hem hits on the front.

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I accessorized with this shoulder bag that also works as a clutch.

 

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Here is the dress that inspired my project.. I think my version comes pretty close, although I couldnt replicate that pose…. even though I tried 🙂

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Moving onto the DISASTER dress. I had so many issues with the grey dress. For starters, since I used a commercial pattern, it had a ridiculous amount of ease in it. It took multiple alterations to get the right fit. The area around the arms had so much excess fabric, that I ended up detaching the sleeves, taking in the shoulder seams and re-attaching the sleeve. But check this out, I attached one sleeve inside out and both sleeves backwards. If that wasnt enough, my serger started acting funny and the side seams looked like they had teeth coming out of them. Lastly, the hem line was a bit too short.. and well after I put on the garment, it just didn’t feel right. I was still determined after all these issues, so I decided to hem the neckline and sleeves and be done with it. Well, as I started to hem, my one and only twin needle broke. I was still determined to finish, so I decided to try the stretch stitch on my machine. Well that was a disaster too.. and the dress now looks like a craft project gone wrong. I mean.. a 4-year-old could probably do a better job.. Oh well!!! We all have failures in life.  I do believe all things happen for a reason.. so I am finally getting a cover stitch machine this weekend. As for the dress, I am too embarrassed to even give it to goodwill… I think I will repurpose the fabric .

Anyways, back to the black dress…..

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PATTERN: I used Mccalls M6886 view C as a base, then did the following pattern alterations: 1) shorten the hem in the front 2) shorten the sleeves and add bands to make it more dressy 3)  lengthen the hem in the back 4) turn the back into a-line instead of pencil

If you are interested in seeing a step by step tutorial on how to do this alteration, let me know and I will be happy to document it.

FABRIC: I used a jersey knit. You can use any knit fabric

SEWING: The dress is easy to sew. You can use this technique to sew the dress up. For the hem, you can use a twin needle or a cover stitch. For the bottom hem, I serged but I did not hem as I didn’t feel it was necessary.

I hope that this inspired you to create something! Until next time, Happy Sewing and Happy Friday

XOXO

Behind The Seams: Overcoming my fear of (animal) print

Hello Ladies and Gents!

I have been a bit unsure about what my next sewing project should be. I know that leopard print is not currently en vogue, but something has been telling me to sew with this beautiful leopard print that I have been hoarding for three years.  Typically I shy away from all prints. I only wear solids. I have only sewn with prints twice. But… this RTW Fast is all about challenging myself, so I am going to attempt to sew with a print.

Here is the fabric I am working with:

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It’s a polyester double knit at 58 inches wide. I have four yards of this, so the possibilites are endless 🙂 I like leopard print, and have worn it as an accent (purses, shoes, belts), but never as a garment. I always thinkg that it would be too loud. Since I dont have my imaginary personal stylist on speed dial, I decided to go to pinterest for inspiration.

A maxi skirt, worn with black….

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I love the idea of doing a fitted top instead, something like this with 3/4 length sleeves, but if I go for this look, then I have to make that skirt too 🙂 Love the look below.

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Here is the gorgeous Mrs Beckam in a calf length pencil skirt, once again with black. This is so elegant.

1411999771918_wps_7_Victoria_Beckham_seen_arr Here is another pencil skirt look I like, with white and denim, I would probably extend the length by a few inches on my version. This is so cute with nude pumps and denim.

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As I was browsing through all these images, I was still unsure of whether I should sew with leopard print, and then I saw THIS…..

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I think the print above is a jaguar print, but you get the point. How cute is this outfit? That would look SO cute on my daughter.. so this picture has me sold. I am still not sure what I am going to make for myself, but  I am making this adorable peplum dress for my toddler. It is just so stinkin cute. Well. I will have my first “Mommy and Me” post coming up soon.

I hope that everyone is getting ready to have a wonderful relaxing. I plan on being in my studio sewing for myself and my mini me. I’ll see you soon with my finished projects.

Happy Friday!!!

XOXO

Pretty in Pink Tulle and Cake Pops!

Hi Folks!

I am so excited about this weeks post. As I mentioned last week, Thursday is my sewing day. Well, last week Thursday was my super sewing day. I was asked by a friend to do a photoshoot for her new website Queen City Cake Pops and she asked that I wear one of my tulle skirts.

Luckily, I had about 6 yards of pink tulle in my fabric stash, so I got to work right away. I made a gorgeous poofy midi length tulle skirt with a satin waistband Here is what I came up with. All the design details are below if you are interested in making your very own tulle skirt!

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The focal point of the pictures was a gorgeous cake pop bouquet by Queen City Cake Pops. I got to dress up in tulle and carry a bouquet! I felt like I was getting married and walking down the fairy tale isle!

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Check out the gorgeous bouquet made by Queen City Cake Pops. You can see more about QC Cake Pops HERE ! I just wanted to eat it up. Maybe I should have eaten at least one of two. Nobody would have noticed!

All these wonderful pictures were taken by Ariel Photography. I got to work with Ariel Perry, who is so much fun and quite talented. You can check out more of her work HERE

 

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I made this top as well. I posted about is last week. You can see the details of the black top HERE

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PATTERN: I used a self-drafted pattern for the skirt and waistband, but you can use Simplicity pattern 1200 HERE or any circle skirt pattern.

FABRIC: For the lining, I used a matte Satin from Hancock Fabric. I loved using this because it was in the color ivory and gave the skirt more dimension. For the Tulle, I used this fabric from Joann’s in the color “blush”. You can find it HERE. I gathered the tulle using a gathering foot. This accessory makes gathering the tulle a breeze. I highly recommend using a gathering foot.  This universal foot works with most machines:

 

SEWING:I gathered the tulle using a gathering foot. This accessory makes gathering the tulle a breeze. I highly recommend using a gathering foot. You can find one HERE. I then sewed up the side seams only on the lining. Depending on your pattern, you may not have side seams, but sew up the skirt per your pattern directions. Then I attached the tulle to the skirt using a basting stitch. Once the tulle and lining were one pieces, I attached it to the waist band, right sides together, inserted the zipper and closed up the waist band using the stitch in the ditch method. One thing to be very careful when putting a zipper in tulle is not to attach the tulle to the zipper. I usually attach the tulle half an inch away from the zipper so it does not get caught.

Ladies, I will be doing a giveaway of the simplicity pattern and the tulle fabric, so please subscribe to my blog and stay tuned if you are interested in making this skirt!

I hope that this inspired you to create something! Until next time, Happy Sewing!

XOXO

 

 

 

 

Behind The Seams: Catching up on UFO’s

Happy Thursday peeps!

Thursday is my sewing day, I sew every Thursday without fail. This week I am tackling a couple UFO’s (Unfinished Objects).

I decided to focus on these two, mainly because it freezing out and also because I can wear them together.

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I started working on this full sleeve top a while back. It’s a copy of a top I loved, but over time, it took too much wear and began to look hobo chic 🙂 So I decided to copy it. I created a pattern for it using my own version of the rub off technique. I am not a big fan of sewing with knits, so needless to say the project never got finished. I never finished the hem and it has been sitting in my sewing studio ever since. Since, I have conquered my fear of the twin needle and learned how to hem knits without the use of a coverstitch machine.

Here is the original top that I loved. Rest in peace my beloved. I cut this baby up to be able to replicate the pattern. I felt so horrible doing it, but it was the easiest way to clone her!

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I love the cowl neck on this top. Cute and functional. Cowl necks never really go out of style.  My paparazzi hubby took this pic while I was shopping for groceries. He is so sneaky, but this shows the cowl neck so well. I just love the way it drapes.

 

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Here is the unfinished version:

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For the pants, I chose to finish up this Pair of pants I started either earlier this year or late last year. The fabric I chose is a gabardine. Personally I don’t like using commercial patterns, mainly because in the time it takes to alter the pattern, I could draft up my own. Not to mention, the muslin making is added time. I often omit muslin making when I am using self drafted patterns.

I am working with Burda 7122 View D: High Waisted Pants.  I already made a muslin, did the fit analysis, altered the pattern and sewed up the shell. I have to admit, these pants are super long, so I need to chop off a good amount of length. I am 5′ 4″ and even with a decent sized heel, these pants are way too long. I am pretty much done with these pants, except the hem and re-applying the zipper.

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I’ll be busy sewing today. Also a dear friend asked me to be part of a photoshoot for her business and asked that I wear a tulle skirt. I do have a tulle skirt that I recently made but I am not crazy about the way it turned out. I got inspired to make a pink poofy tulle skirt for tomorrows photo shoot.. I actually already have the tulle gathered…but still need to make the skirt.. So off to the fabric store I go! I’ll be sewing late into the night.

Do you have any UFO’s in your closet? If you sew, I know you do!

I’ll be back soon with the finished products. Untill then, happy sewing!

XOXO

Lady in Red: Valentines Day Dress

Happy Valentines Day Folks!

This week I have been working on a dress for Valentines Day. Initially I had planned on making a pencil skirt with this fabric. In fact, I already had the fabric cut out and ready to sew. But I wanted something a bit more dressy for V-Day, so I decided I was going to make a dress instead. I had only one yard of this fabric, so my only option really was to make a strapless bodice with the leftover fabric. Here is what I came up with

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IMG_5865To accessorize my V-Day outfit, I decided to go with this gorgeous clutch that I picked up on my last trip to India. Not sure exactly where, but mum and I were shopping in Sector 17, so this beauty is from the City Beautiful. The mink collar is a vintage buy from when I was living and studying in San Francisco. I threw on my favourite nude pumps, an arm bracelet that is a gift from my mum 🙂

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Here is the back view and side view:

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I am debating between the mink collar and a black shawl. The shawl is borrowed from my mum. She just picked this up in Chandigarh (Shout out to the Sector 22 Market!) It’s very warm and  I love mixing my Indian pieces with western outfits.

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The pattern for the skirt is self drafted. Since I was in a pinch, I decided to use a pattern that I already had on hand: Mccalls M6838. I love the fit of the skirt, but I will admit that the bodice gave me a good amount of grief.

Because I didn’t have a lot of left over fabric, I had to create a facing. Ideally, a dress like this would be self faced or self lined on the bodice. The facing didn’t want to settle down, even though I understitched it. I also had to do a good amount of alteration to the top since it wasnt self drafted. I will definitely make this dress again with some revisions. The lesson learned here is to draft my own bodice next time for the perfect fit and self line the bodice .  I still love the dress.. but because I am not crazy about the bodice, so I am going to chop it off and turn this dress to a skirt.

Design details are below if you are interested in making your own.

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PATTERN: I drafted the pattern for the skirt myself. It’s a fairly simple skirt. I used my sloper and added a few inches to the length. There really were no alterations required since the sloper is a custom fit.  For the bodice, I decided to use a commercial pattern. I opted for  Mccalls M6838.

If you want to make something similar, you can use Mccalls M6838 and combine it with any pencil skirt pattern. I did have to add one inch to the bottom of the bodice to lengthen it.

SEWING: The construction of this dress involved the following steps: Skirt—> Sewing up the front and back darts, sewing up the side seams. Bodice–> Sewing up the princess seams and side seams. Adding a facing to the neckline, attaching the bodice to the skirt by sewing up the waist seam and finally inserting the zipper and closing the centre back seam. Last step as always is to finish the hem.

SUPPLIES:  Fabric, I used about one yard, pattern,  thread and sewing machine (serger optional), 12-14 inch invisible zipper

I hope you enjoyed reading this and I hope this inspires you to sew and make something for yourself. See you next time and until then.. Happy Sewing :)

XOXO

Behind The Seams: Valentines Day Dress

Hola Peeps!

So this week I just wasn’t sure what I wanted to work on. I am in a bit of a sewing slump to be honest. Baby and I have both been sick and it just hasn’t been a creative week. But… It’s Wednesday and this is when I start thinking about my sewing project for the week.

I heard its Valentines Day this week and I thought about making something for the occasion. I usually don’t do much for V-Day, but I am on a RTW Fast and I have so much in my life to celebrate, so this year is going to be a celebration of love, and I must dress for the occasion. I have also been nagging my husband to buy me chocos and flowers. Just had to throw that in there, in case he is reading 🙂

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So… A few weeks ago, I saw this really interesting fabric. It’s a dark red woven fabric, with a small amount of stretch to it. I loved the color of the fabric, but I was really drawn to the texture more than the color. I love texture on fabric. I thought I would make a skirt with it, so I only bought one yard for a pencil skirt, but I am finding myself wanting to make a dress instead. I have already drafted the pattern for the skirt. It’s a simple below the knee pencil skirts with two front darts and two back darts. Now all of a sudden I want to make a dress instead. I want a dress with a peplum, but I don’t have enough fabric, so I am debating between making a pencil skirt, or a strapless dress with a sweetheart neckline, fitted bodice and pencil skirt. To me this is one of the fun parts about being creative. I often end up doing something different from I first imagined. Note to self: Always buy at least two yards of fabric.

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I also have another fabric that I was using a couple of years ago. It is a red lace overlay over muslin. I really like that as well. It is a UFO (Unfinished Object). I had cut out the fabric from the dress and was ready to sew it up, but I was pregnant at the time and had started gaining weight, so never finished it. Right now I am not sure exactly what I will end up making by the end of the week.. but it’s either a red dress or red skirt, or a lace dress or lace skirt.

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Excited to work on this project! I’ve never worn a red pencil skirt, so I am excited about the finished product!

Happy V Day Peeps. Hope everyone is celebrating their loved one!

XOXO

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